Winery Brings Slice of Heaven to Western Kansas

How did a self-proclaimed Bud Light drinker start a vineyard in Western Kansas? It was a leap of faith.

“We had no clue what we were doing,” said Kirk Johnston, who runs Shiloh Vineyard with his wife Treva. “We had absolutely no experience in vineyards or winemaking.” 

Kirk had a background in agriculture, but not wine. He earned a degree in agronomy from Kansas State University and ran a grain livestock operation in WaKeeney raising cattle and growing corn, wheat, sorghum and alfalfa. But something told him he was supposed to go in a different direction.

Kirk and Treva downsized their operation and moved to Hays. There, they found a church community and served as assistant pastors. Scripture kept pointing them someplace else, however. They read about Shiloh, where the Bible says the Ark of the Covenant was housed, and the vineyards there.

“Over the course of time it just seemed like we were supposed to plant a vineyard,” Kirk said.

When his uncle called to ask if he’d be interested in returning to the family homestead near WaKeeney, Kirk and Treva decided it was time to follow their faith. So in 2008, halfway around the world from the Shiloh of biblical history, Shiloh Vineyards was born in Kansas.

Although Napa Valley in California is the most recognized wine region in the United States today, that wasn’t always the case. Before Prohibition, the majority of wine and wine grapes in the United States came from Kansas and Missouri.

“Our soil is very acclimated to grapes,” Kirk said. “We have soils similar to the Champagne region in France. The trick is finding the varieties that grow here.”

Kansas has a continental climate, which means hot summers and cold winters. That translates into a summer growing season that gives grapes time to mature, as well as a winter growing season that supports heartier varieties like those bred for northern regions.

After their first few years in operation, Kirk and Treva were faced with seven years of drought. Still, they saw signs they were on the right path. The ancient city of Shiloh and WaKeeney are at the same elevation — about half a mile above sea level. The Ark of the Covenant was at Shiloh for 369 years. Kirk discovered antique license plates adorning the family barn with the same last three digits — 369. They kept the faith.

“This is where we needed to be,” Kirk said. “There are challenges, but if you persevere, you can do some outstanding things.”

And Kirk and Treva have done some outstanding things. They restored buildings on the homestead, such as the chicken house Kirk’s grandfather built in 1925 and an original Montgomery Ward home from 1929. They created event areas to allow others to experience the vineyard. They also grow apples, peaches, plums and pears — all of which they use for making wine.

With a few exceptions, the couple does all the work themselves.

“My wife and I are the two employees here mainly, so we have to do everything from cleaning toilets to serving people to doing the yard work to working in the vineyard to doing everything that needs to be done with the wines,” Kirk says. “There are so many different aspects of it.”

The winemaking process is quite intense. Vines take about three years to establish. Each year, the grapes have to be protected from pests like birds and raccoons. Kirk and Treva have to test sugar content and acidity levels for peak harvesting. 

Fermenting requires getting the chemistry just right with yeast and sulfite compounds. The also have to time the settling and aging just right. Kirk and Treva taste their wines frequently to figure out what they need in any given stage. All in all, white fruit wines take about six months to make and reds take closer to 18 months. Kirk and Treva currently make about 15 different kinds of wine from seven different kinds of grapes, plus other fruits like apples and blackberry.

“We make the wines that we like,” Kirk says. When asked if he has a favorite, he replied, “Whatever’s in my glass.”

Even though they’ve had the vineyard for 10 years, Kirk’s love of Bud Light is still strong.

“There’s a time and a place for everything,” he said. “But I appreciate the wines. I so like how you can taste what the fruit actually is, and the essence of it and the aromas.”

Not only do Kirk and Treva like to share their wines, they like to share their slice of Kansas. By hosting events — everything from corporate retreats to weddings to seasonal festivals — they have been blessed with visitors from all over the world.

“We are very glad that we chose to go this direction. You get away from the hustle and bustle of cities and enjoy the peace of God out here,” Kirk says. “If you’re driving along Interstate 70 and drive by mile marker 120, come visit us and say hi. See what we’re all about and meet Sam the Wine Dog. He’s a special part of the winery.”

To learn more about Shiloh Vineyard, visit their website or follow them on Facebook.